prof. dr. Gerben Ruessink
Gegenereerd op 2018-08-15 02:01:11

Wave-dominated coastal morphodynamics
Date of appointment 01.07.2013
Inaugural lecture date 13.05.2014

I study the natural and human-impacted morphological evolution of sandy beaches and dunes in response to wave-induced and aeolian processes. Together with my PhD students, postdocs and staff members, I cover research topics on a wide range of scales: from turbulence and sand suspension under breaking waves to climate-change effects on wind and wave conditions. In 2004, I received a Vidi award from NWO to study sandbar dynamics and predictability. I use a process-based approach, in which I often combine in-situ field data, remote sensing observations, laboratory experiments, and numerical models. I am keen on developing and adopting new techniques, such as terrestrial laser scanning, that improve the quantitative understanding of the coastal zone substantially. My current research interests include aeolian process dynamics and seasonal to yearly exchange of sand between the beach and the dunes, topics with clear societal relevance because of the present-day challenge of combining coastal safety objectives with nature development to maintain sustainable and climate-proof dunes. In January 2014, I received a Vici award from NWO to start my project "Poseidon meets Aeolus: wind-driven sand transport on wave-dominated beaches". In my inaugural lecture I introduced Building for (not with!) Nature as a viable approach to integrate nature development/restoration with coastal-safety objectives.

Strategic themes / Focus areas
Involved in the following study programme(s)
Scientific expertise
waves, currents and sand transport
dune-beach interaction
coastal geomorphology
aeolian processes
Gegenereerd op 2018-08-15 02:01:11
Curriculum vitae Download PDF
Gegenereerd op 2018-08-15 02:01:11

Bibliometric data (June 2018):

h index: 43
i10 index: 118
Total number of citations: 5827
(Source: Google Scholar; also go here for full publication list)

All publications
  2018 - Scholarly publications
Ruessink, B. G., Arens, S. M., Kuipers, M. & Donker, J. J.A. (2018). Coastal dune dynamics in response to excavated foredune notches. Aeolian Research, 31, (pp. 3-17).
Hage, P.M., Ruessink, B.G. & Donker, J.J.A. (2018). Determining sand strip characteristics using Argus video monitoring. Aeolian Research, 33, (pp. 1-11).
Bertin, Xavier, de Bakker, A.T.M., van Dongeren, Ap, Coco, Giovanni, Andre, Gael, Ardhuin, F., Bonneton, P., Bouchette, Frederic, Castelle, B., Crawford, Wayne, Davidson, M., Deen, Martha, Dodet, Guillaume, Guerin, Thomas, Inch, Kris, Leckler, Fabien, McCall, Robert, Muller, Heloise, Olabarrieta, Maintane, Roelvink, Dano, Ruessink, B.G., Sous, Damien, Stutzmann, Eleonore & Tissier, M.F.S. (2018). Infragravity waves - from driving mechanisms to impacts. Earth-Science Reviews, 177, (pp. 774-799).
de Winter, W., van Dam, D. B., Delbecque, Nicole, Verdoodt, A., Ruessink, B. G. & Sterk, G. (2018). Measuring high spatiotemporal variability in saltation intensity using a low-cost Saltation Detection System - Wind tunnel and field experiments. Aeolian Research, 31, (pp. 72-81).
Smit, Yvonne, Ruessink, Gerben, Brakenhoff, Laura B. & Donker, Jasper J.A. (2018). Measuring spatial and temporal variation in surface moisture on a coastal beach with a near-infrared terrestrial laser scanner. Aeolian Research, 31, (pp. 19-27).
Huisman, B.J.A., Ruessink, B.G., De Schipper, Matthieu, Luijendijk, Arjen & Stive, Marcel (2018). Modelling of bed sediment composition changes at the lower shoreface of the Sand Motor. Coastal Engineering, 132, (pp. 33-49).
Rutten, J., Ruessink, B. G. & Price, T. D. (2018). Observations on sandbar behaviour along a man-made curved coast. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 43, (pp. 134-149).
Schwarz, Christian, Gourgue, Olivier, Van Belzen, Jim, Zhu, Zhenchang, Bouma, Tjeerd J., Van De Koppel, Johan, Ruessink, Gerben, Claude, Nicolas & Temmerman, Stijn (2018). Self-organization of a biogeomorphic landscape controlled by plant life-history traits. Nature Geoscience
Brinkkemper, J. A., Aagaard, T., de Bakker, A. T.M. & Ruessink, B. G. (2018). Short-wave sand transport in the shallow surf zone. Journal of geophysical research. Earth surface, 123, (pp. 1145-1159).
  2017 - Scholarly publications
Rutten, Jantien, de Jong, Steven M. & Ruessink, Gerben (2017). Accuracy of Nearshore Bathymetry Inverted From X-Band Radar and Optical Video Data. IEEE Transactions on Geoscience and Remote Sensing, 55 (2), (pp. 1106-1116).
Liebrand, Diederik, de Bakker, Anouk T M, Beddow, Helen M, Wilson, Paul A, Bohaty, Steven M, Ruessink, Gerben, Pälike, Heiko, Batenburg, Sietske J, Hilgen, Frederik J, Hodell, David A, Huck, Claire E, Kroon, Dick, Raffi, Isabella, Saes, Mischa J M, van Dijk, Arnold E & Lourens, Lucas J (11.04.2017). Evolution of the early Antarctic ice ages. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America, 114 (15), (pp. 3867–3872) (6 p.).
Brinkkemper, J.A., de Bakker, A.T.M. & Ruessink, B.G. (2017). Intrawave sand suspension in the shoaling and surf zone of a field-scale laboratory beach. Journal of geophysical research. Earth surface, 122 (1), (pp. 356-370) (15 p.).
Dubarbier, Benjamin, Castelle, B., Ruessink, B.G. & Marieu, Vincent (2017). Mechanisms controlling the complete accretionary beach state sequence. Geophysical Research Letters, 44, (pp. 5645-5654).
Arriaga, Jaime, Rutten, J., Ribas, F., Falques, A. & Ruessink, B.G. (2017). Modeling the long-term diffusion and feeding capability of a mega-nourishment. Coastal Engineering, 121, (pp. 1-13) (13 p.).
Engelstad, A.C., Ruessink, B. G., Wesselman, D., Hoekstra, P., Oost, A. & van der Vegt, M. (01.04.2017). Observations of waves and currents during barrier island inundation. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 122 (4), (pp. 3152-3169).
Splinter, Kristen D., Turner, Ian L., Reinhardt, Mika & Ruessink, B.G. (30.06.2017). Rapid adjustment of shoreline behavior to changing seasonality of storms - Observations and modelling at an open-coast beach. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 42 (8), (pp. 1186-1194).
de Winter, R.C. & Ruessink, B.G. (2017). Sensitivity analysis of climate change impacts on dune erosion: case study for the Dutch Holland coast. Climatic Change, 141 (4), (pp. 685-701).
  2016 - Scholarly publications
Tatui, I.F., Vespremeaunu-Stroe, A. & Ruessink, B.G. (2016). Alongshore variability of cross-shore bar behavior on a nontidal beach. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 41, (pp. 2085-2097).
de Bakker, A. T M, Tissier, M. F S & Ruessink, B. G. (14.01.2016). Beach steepness effects on nonlinear infragravity-wave interactions - A numerical study. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 121, (pp. 554-570) (17 p.).
de Bakker, A.T.M., Brinkkemper, J.A., Van der Steen, Florian, Tissier, M.F.S. & Ruessink, B.G. (2016). Cross-shore sand transport by infragravity waves as a function of beach steepness. Journal of geophysical research. Earth surface, 121 (14 p.).
Bakker, J.P., Baas, Andreas C.W., Bartholdy, Jesper, Jones, Laurence, Ruessink, B.G., Temmerman, Stijn & van de Pol, Martijn (2016). Environmental Impacts - Coastal Ecosystems. North Sea Region Climate Change Assessment (pp. 275-313). Springer.
de Schipper, Matthieu A., de Vries, Sierd, Ruessink, Gerben, de Zeeuw, Roeland C., Rutten, Jantien, van Gelder-Maas, Carola & Stive, Marcel J F (01.05.2016). Initial spreading of a mega feeder nourishment - Observations of the Sand Engine pilot project. Coastal Engineering, 111, (pp. 23-38) (16 p.).
Masselink, G., Ruju, A., Conley, D., Turner, I., Ruessink, B.G., Matias, A., Thompson, C., Castelle, B., Puleo, J., Citerone, V. & Wolters, G. (2016). Large-scale Barrier Dynamics Experiment II (BARDEX II): Experimental design, instrumentation, test program, and data set. Coastal Engineering, 113, (pp. 3-18).
Brinkkemper, J. A., Lanckriet, T., Grasso, F., Puleo, J. A. & Ruessink, B. G. (2016). Observations of turbulence within the surf and swash zone of a field-scale sandy laboratory beach. Coastal Engineering, 113, (pp. 62-72).
Walstra, D.J.R., Wesselman, D.A., van der Deijl, E.C. & Ruessink, B.G. (25.02.2016). On the intersite variability in inter-annual nearshore sandbar cycles. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 4 (20 p.).
Ruessink, B.G., Blenkinsopp, C., Brinkkemper, J.A., Castelle, B., Dubarbier, Benjamin, Grasso, F., Puleo, J. & Lanckriet, T. (2016). Sandbar and beach-face evolution on a prototype coarse sandy barrier. Coastal Engineering, 113, (pp. 19-32).
Huisman, B.J.A., De Schipper, M. A. & Ruessink, B.G. (2016). Sediment sorting at the Sand Motor at storm and annual time scales. Marine Geology, 381, (pp. 209-226).
  2015 - Scholarly publications
Ruessink, B.G., Brinkkemper, J.A. & Kleinhans, M.G. (2015). Geometry of wave-formed orbital ripples in coarse sand. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 3 (4), (pp. 1568-1594).
Rijnsdorp, Dirk P., Ruessink, Gerben & Zijlema, Marcel (2015). Infragravity-wave dynamics in a barred coastal region, a numerical study. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 120 (6), (pp. 4068-4089).
Tissier, M.F.S., Bonneton, P., Michallet, H. & Ruessink, B.G. (2015). Infragravity-wave modulation of short-wave celerity in the surf zone. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 120 (10), (pp. 6799-6814).
de Bakker, A. T M, Herbers, T. H C, Smit, P. B., Tissier, M. F S & Ruessink, B. G. (01.01.2015). Nonlinear infragravity-wave interactions on a gently sloping laboratory beach. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 45 (2), (pp. 589-605).
de Winter, Renske, Gongriep, F. & Ruessink, Gerben (2015). Observations and modeling of alongshore variability in dune erosion at Egmond aan Zee, the Netherlands. Coastal Engineering, 99, (pp. 167-175).
Dubarbier, Benjamin, Castelle, Bruno, Marieu, Vincent & Ruessink, Gerben (01.01.2015). Process-based modeling of cross-shore sandbar behavior. Coastal Engineering, 95, (pp. 35-50).
Walstra, D.J.R., Ruessink, B.G., Reniers, A.J.H.M. & Ranasinghe, R. (2015). Process-based modeling of kilometer-scale alongshore sandbar variability. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 40, (pp. 995-1005).
  2014 - Scholarly publications
Ruessink, Gerben & Ranasinghe, R. (2014). Beaches. In Gerd Masselink & Roland Gehrels (Eds.), Coastal Environments and Global Change (pp. 149-177). Wiley.
Nolet, Corjan, Poortinga, Ate, Roosjen, Peter, Bartholomeus, Harm & Ruessink, Gerben (10.11.2014). Measuring and modeling the effect of surface moisture on the spectral reflectance of coastal beach sand. PLoS One, 9 (11).
Price, T.D., Ruessink, B.G. & Castelle, B. (2014). Morphological coupling in multiple sandbar systems - a review. Earth Surface Dynamics, 2 (1), (pp. 309-321) (13 p.).
Ribas, F., Doeschate, A., de Swart, Huib, Ruessink, B.G. & Calvete, D. (2014). Observations and modeling of surf zone transverse finger bars at the Gold Coast, Australia. Ocean Dynamics, 64 (8), (pp. 1193-1207) (15 p.). Topical Collection on the 7th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics in Arcachon, France 24-28 June 2013.
Almar, R., Michallet, H., Cienfuegos, R., Bonneton, P., Tissier, M.F.S. & Ruessink, B.G. (2014). On the use of the Radon Transform in studying nearshore wave dynamics. Coastal Engineering, 92, (pp. 24-30) (7 p.).
Henriquez, M., Reniers, A. J H M, Ruessink, B. G. & Stive, M. J F (01.12.2014). PIV measurements of the bottom boundary layer under nonlinear surface waves. Coastal Engineering, 94, (pp. 33-46) (14 p.).
de Bakker, A.T.M., Tissier, M.F.S. & Ruessink, B.G. (2014). Shoreline dissipation of infragravity waves. Continental Shelf Research, 72, (pp. 73-82) (10 p.).
  2013 - Scholarly publications
Abreu, T., Michallet, H., Silva, P.A., Sancho, F., van der A, D.A. & Ruessink, B.G. (2013). Bed shear stress under skewed and asymmetric oscillatory flows. Coastal Engineering, 73, (pp. 1-10) (10 p.).
Price, T.D., Castelle, B., Ranasinghe, R. & Ruessink, B.G. (2013). Coupled sandbar patterns and obliquely incident waves. Journal of geophysical research. Earth surface, 118 (3), (pp. 1677-1692) (16 p.).
Walstra, D.J.R., Hoekstra, R., Tonnon, P.K. & Ruessink, B.G. (2013). Input reduction for long-term morphodynamic simulations in wave-dominated coastal settings. Coastal Engineering, 77, (pp. 57-70) (14 p.).
Price, T.D. & Ruessink, B.G. (2013). Observations and conceptual modelling of morphological coupling in a double sandbar system. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 38, (pp. 477-489) (13 p.).
van de Lageweg, W.I., Bryan, K.R., Coco, G. & Ruessink, B.G. (2013). Observations of shoreline-sandbar coupling on an embayed beach. Marine Geology, 344, (pp. 101-114) (14 p.).
de Winter, R.C., Sterl, A. & Ruessink, B.G. (2013). Wind extremes in the North Sea basin under climate change: an ensemble study of 12 CMIP5 GCMs. Journal of Geophysical Research: Atmospheres, 118, (pp. 1601-1612) (12 p.).
  2012 - Scholarly publications
Walstra, D.J.R., Reniers, A.J.H.M., Ranasinghe, R., Roelvink, J.A. & Ruessink, B.G. (2012). On bar growth and decay during interannual net offshore migration. Coastal Engineering, 60, (pp. 190-200) (11 p.).
Castelle, B., Marieu, V., Coco, G., Bonneton, P., Bruneau, N. & Ruessink, B.G. (2012). On the impact of an offshore bedform on surfzone rip channels. Journal of Geophysical Research, 117 (F01038).
Ruessink, B.G., Ramaekers, G. & van Rijn, L.C. (2012). On the parameterization of the free-stream non-linear wave orbital motion in nearshore morphodynamic models. Coastal Engineering, 65, (pp. 56-63) (8 p.).
de Winter, R.C., Sterl, A., de Vries, J.W., Weber, S.L. & Ruessink, B.G. (2012). The effect of climate change on extreme waves in front of the Dutch coast. Ocean Dynamics, 62, (pp. 1139-1152) (14 p.).
Ruessink, B.G., Boers, M., van Geer, P.F.C., de Bakker, A.T.M., Pieterse, A., Grasso, F.R. & de Winter, R.C. (2012). Towards a process-based model to predict dune erosion along the Dutch Wadden coast. Geologie en Mijnbouw/Netherlands Journal of Geosciences, 91 (3), (pp. 357-372) (16 p.).
Grasso, F.R., Castelle, B. & Ruessink, B.G. (2012). Turbulence dissipation under breaking waves and bores in a natural surf zone. Continental Shelf Research, 43, (pp. 133-141) (9 p.).
Grasso, F.R. & Ruessink, B.G. (2012). Turbulent viscosity in natural surf zones. Geophysical Research Letters, 39 (L23603).
  2011 - Scholarly publications
Price, T.D., Rutten, J. & Ruessink, B.G. (2011). Coupled behaviour within a double sandbar system. Journal of Coastal Research, Sp.Iss. 64 (ICS2011 (Proceedings)), (pp. 1911-1925) (15 p.).
Castelle, B. & Ruessink, B.G. (2011). Modeling formation and subsequent nonlinear evolution of rip channels: Time-varying versus time-invariant wave forcing. Journal of geophysical research. Earth surface, 116, (pp. F04008-1-F04008-15) (15 p.).
Pape, L. & Ruessink, B.G. (2011). Neural-network predictability experiments for nearshore sandbar migration. Continental Shelf Research, 31, (pp. 1033-1042) (10 p.).
Ruessink, B.G., Michallet, H., Abreu, T., Sancho, F., van der A, D., van der Werf, J.J. & Silva, P.A. (2011). Observations of velocities, sand concentrations, and fluxes under velocity-asymmetric oscillatory flows. Journal of Geophysical Research, 116 (C03004).
Silva, P.A., Abreu, T., van der A, D., Sancho, F., Ruessink, B.G., van der Werf, J. & Ribberink, J.S. (2011). Sediment transport in non-linear skewed oscillatory flows: Transkew experiments. Journal of Hydraulic Research/De Recherches Hydrauliques, 49 (Supl. 1), (pp. 72-80) (9 p.).
Idier, D., Falqués, A., Ruessink, B.G. & Garnier, R. (2011). Shoreline instability under low-angle wave incidence. Journal of geophysical research. Earth surface, 116 (F04031), (pp. F04031-1-F04031-12) (12 p.).
Price, T.D. & Ruessink, B.G. (2011). State dynamics of a double sandbar system. Continental Shelf Research, 31 (6), (pp. 659-674) (16 p.).
Sénéchal, N., Abadie, S., Gallagher, E., MacMahan, J.H.M., Masselink, G., Michallet, H., Reniers, A.J.H.M., Ruessink, B.G., Russell, P.E., Sous, D., Turner, I.L., Ardhuin, F., Bonneton, P., Bajun, S., Capo, S., Certain, R., Pedreros, R. & Garlan, T. (2011). The ECORS-Truc Vert'08 nearshore field experiment: presentation of a three-dimensional morphologic system in a macrotidal environment during consecutive extreme storm conditions. Ocean Dynamics, 61 (Supl. 1), (pp. 2073-2098) (26 p.).
Thiébot, J., Idier, D., Falques, A. & Ruessink, B.G. (2011). The influence of wave angle on the morphological response of a double sandbar system. Continental Shelf Research, 32, (pp. 71-85) (15 p.).
Huisman, C.E., Bryan, K.R., Coco, G. & Ruessink, B.G. (2011). The use of video imagery to analyse groundwater and shoreline dynamics on a dissipative beach. Continental Shelf Research, 31, (pp. 1728-1738) (11 p.).
  2010 - Scholarly publications
Castelle, B., Ruessink, B.G., Bonneton, P., Marieu, V., Bruneau, N. & Price, T.D. (2010). Coupling mechanisms in double sandbar systems. Part 1: Patterns and physical explanation. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 35 (4), (pp. 476-486) (11 p.).
Castelle, B., Ruessink, B.G., Bonneton, P., Marieu, V., Bruneau, N. & Price, T.D. (2010). Coupling mechanisms in double sandbar systems. Part 2: Impact on alongshore variability of inner-bar rip channels. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 35 (7), (pp. 771-781) (11 p.).
Pape, L., Kuriyama, Y. & Ruessink, B.G. (2010). Models and scales for nearshore sandbar behavior. Journal of geophysical research. Earth surface, 115 (F03043).
Ruessink, B.G. (2010). Observations of turbulence within a natural surf zone. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 40 (12), (pp. 2696-2712) (17 p.).
Pape, L., Plant, N.G. & Ruessink, B.G. (2010). On cross-shore sandbar behavior and equilibrium states. Journal of geophysical research. Earth surface, 115 (F03008).
van Maanen, B., Coco, G., Bryan, K. R. & Ruessink, B. G. (2010). The use of artificial neural networks to analyze and predict alongshore sediment transport. Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics, 17 (5), (pp. 395-404) (10 p.).
Almar, R., Castelle, B., Ruessink, B.G., Sénéchal, N., Bonneton, P. & Marieu, V. (2010). Two- and three-dimensional double-sandbar system behaviour under intense wave forcing and meso-macro tidal range. Continental Shelf Research, 30, (pp. 781-792) (12 p.).
  2009 - Scholarly publications
van Maanen, B., de Ruiter, P. J. & Ruessink, B. G. (2009). An evaluation of two alongshore transport equations with field measurements. Coastal Engineering, 56 (3), (pp. 313-319) (7 p.).
van Maanen, B., de. Ruiter, P.J. & Ruessink, B.G. (2009). An evaluation of two longshore transport equations with field measurements. Coastal Engineering, 56, (pp. 313-319) (7 p.).
Ruessink, B.G., Pape, L. & Turner, I.L. (2009). Daily to interannual cross-shore sandbar migration: observations from a multiple sandbar system. Continental Shelf Research, 29, (pp. 1663-1677) (15 p.).
Ruessink, B.G., van den Berg, T.J.J. & van Rijn, L.C. (2009). Modeling sediment transport beneath skewed-asymmetric waves above a plane bed. Journal of Geophysical Research, 114 (C11021).
Ruessink, B.G. (2009). Nearshore video monitoring: the Argus system. In K. Pye and W. Ritchie (Eds.), The measurement of coastal change (pp. 49-63) (15 p.). Aberdeen: Institute for Coastal Science and Management.
Ruessink, B.G. & Quartel, S. (2009). Temporal and spatial behaviour of rip channels in a multiple-barred coastal system. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 34, (pp. 163-176) (14 p.).
  2008 - Scholarly publications
Ojeda, E., Ruessink, B.G. & Guillén, J. (2008). Morphodynamic response a two-barred beach to a shoreface nourishment. Coastal Engineering, 55, (pp. 1185-1196) (12 p.).
Price, T.D. & Ruessink, B.G. (2008). Morphodynamic zone variability on a microtidal barred beach. Marine Geology, 251, (pp. 98-109) (12 p.).
Smit, M.W.J., Reniers, A.J.H.M., Ruessink, B.G. & Roelvink, J.A. (2008). Morphological response of a nearshore double sandbar system to constant wave forcing. Coastal Engineering, 55, (pp. 761-770) (10 p.).
Pape, L. & Ruessink, B.G. (2008). Multivariate analysis of nonlinearity in sandbar behavior. Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics, 15, (pp. 145-158) (14 p.).
Ruessink, B.G. & Kuriyama, Y. (2008). Numerical predictability experiments of cross-shore sandbar migration. Geophysical Research Letters, 35 (L01603).
van Maanen, B., de Ruiter, P. J., Coco, Giovanni, Bryan, K. R. & Ruessink, B. G. (07.08.2008). Onshore sandbar migration at Tairua Beach (New Zealand): Numerical simulations and field measurements. Marine Geology, 253 (3-4), (pp. 99-106) (8 p.).
Ruessink, B.G. (2008). Parameter stability and consistency in an alongshore current model determined with Markov Chain simulation. Journal of Hydroinformatics, 10, (pp. 153-162) (10 p.).
Quartel, S., Kroon, A. & Ruessink, B.G. (2008). Seasonal accretion and erosion patterns of a microtidal sandy beach. Marine Geology, 250, (pp. 19-33) (15 p.).
  2007 - Scholarly publications
Turdukulov, U.D., Blok, C., Ruessink, B.G. & Turner, I.L. (2007). Connecting users with their data: an environment to explore the morphodynamics of rip channels. Cartographica, 42, (pp. 139-151) (13 p.).
Ruessink, B.G., Coco, G., Ranasinghe, R. & Turner, I.L. (2007). Coupled and noncoupled behavior of three-dimensional morphological patterns in a double sandbar system. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 112 (C7), (pp. C07002-doi:10.1029/2006JC003799) (3204 p.).
Quartel, S., Ruessink, B.G. & Kroon, A. (2007). Daily to seasonal cross-shore behaviour of quasi-persistent intertidal beach morphology. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 32, (pp. 1293-1307) (15 p.).
Castelle, B., Turner, I.L., Ruessink, B.G. & Tomlinson, R.B. (2007). Impact of storms on beach erosion: Broadbeach (Gold Coast, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50, (pp. 534-539) (6 p.).
Ruessink, B.G., Kuriyama, Y., Reniers, A.J.H.M., Roelvink, J.A. & Walstra, D.J.R. (2007). Modeling cross-shore sandbar behavior on the time scale of weeks. Journal of geophysical research. Earth surface, 112 (F3), (pp. F03010) (2281 p.).
Turner, I.L., White, D., Ruessink, B.G. & Ranasinghe, R. (2007). Observations of rip spacing, persistence and mobility at a long, straight coastline. Marine Geology, 236, (pp. 209-221) (13 p.).
Pape, Leo, Ruessink, B.G., Wiering, Marco A. & Turner, Ian L. (01.05.2007). Recurrent neural network modeling of nearshore sandbar behavior. Neural Networks, 20 (4), (pp. 509-518) (10 p.).
Smit, M.W.J., Aarninkhof, S.G.J., Wijnberg, K.M., González, M., Kingston, K.S., Southgate, H.N. & Ruessink, B.G. (2007). The role of video imagery in predicting daily to monthly coastal evolution. Coastal Engineering, 54, (pp. 539-553) (15 p.).
  2006 - Scholarly publications
Ruessink, B.G. (2006). A Bayesian estimation of parameter-induced uncertainty in a nearshore alongshore current model. doi:10.2166/jh.2006.009. Journal of Hydroinformatics, 8(1), (pp. 37-49) (13 p.).
Ruessink, B.G., Houwman, K.T. & Grasmeijer, B.T. (2006). Modeling the nonlinear effect of wind on rectilinear tidal flow. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 111 (C10), (pp. C10002-doi:10.1029/2006JC003570) (6433 p.).
Quartel, S., Addink, E.A. & Ruessink, B.G. (2006). Object-oriented extraction of beach morphology from video images. International Journal of Applied Earth Observation and Geoinformation, 8(4), (pp. 256-269) (14 p.).
Elfrink, B., Hanes, D.M. & Ruessink, B.G. (2006). Parameterization and simulation of near bed orbital velocities under irregular waves in shallow water. Coastal Engineering, 53, (pp. 915-927) (13 p.).
  2005 - Scholarly publications
Ruessink, B.G. (2005). Calibration of nearshore process models - application of a hybrid genetic algorithm. Journal of Hydroinformatics, 7, (pp. 135-149) (15 p.).
Kleinhans, M.G., Grasmeijer, B.T. & Ruessink, B.G. (2005). Current roughness over small bedforms and waves - paper S. In van L.C. Rijn (Eds.), EU-Sandpit end-book (pp. paper S). the Netherlands: Aqua Publications.
Grunnet, N. & Ruessink, B.G. (2005). Morphodynamic response of nearshore bars to a shoreface nourishment. Coastal Engineering, 52, (pp. 119-137) (19 p.).
Aarninkhof, S.G.J., Ruessink, B.G. & Roelvink, J.A. (2005). Nearshore subtidal bathymetry from time-exposure video images. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 110 (C6), (pp. C06011-doi: 10.1029/2004JC002791) (3221 p.).
Rattan, S.S.P., Ruessink, B.G. & Hsieh, W.W. (2005). Non-linear complex principal component analysis of nearshore bathymetry. Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics, 12, (pp. 661-670) (10 p.).
Ruessink, B.G. (2005). Predictive uncertainty of a nearshore bed evolution model. Continental Shelf Research, 25, (pp. 503-519) (17 p.).
Grunnet, N., Ruessink, B.G. & Walstra, D.J.R. (2005). The influence of tides, wind and waves on the redistribution of nourished sediment, Terschelling, the Netherlands. Coastal Engineering, 52, (pp. 617-631) (15 p.).
  2004 - Scholarly publications
Ruessink, B.G., van Enckevort, I.M.J. & Kuriyama, Y. (2004). Non-linear principal component analysis of nearshore bathymetry. Marine Geology, 203, (pp. 185-197) (13 p.).
van Enckevort, I.M.J., Ruessink, B.G., Coco, G., Suzuki, K., Turner, I.L., Plant, N.G. & Holman, R.A. (2004). Observations of nearshore crescentic sandbars. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 109 (C6), (pp. C06028-doi: 10.1029/2003JC002214) (3815 p.).
Grunnet, N., Walstra, D.J.R. & Ruessink, B.G. (2004). Process-based modelling of a shoreface nourishment. Coastal Engineering, 51, (pp. 581-607) (27 p.).
Aarninkhof, S.G.J. & Ruessink, B.G. (2004). Video observations and model predictions of depth-induced wave dissipation. IEEE Transactions on Geoscience and Remote Sensing, 42 (11), (pp. 2612-2622) (11 p.).
  2003 - Scholarly publications
Ruessink, B.G., Walstra, D.J.R. & Southgate, H.N. (2003). Calibration and verification of a parametric wave model on a barred beaches. Coastal Engineering, 48, (pp. 139-149) (11 p.).
Ruessink, B.G., Wijnberg, K.M., Holman, R.A., Kuriyama, Y. & van Enckevort, I.M.J. (2003). Intersite comparison of interannual nearshore bar behavior. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 108 (C8), (pp. 3249-doi: 10.1029/2002JC001505) (1745 p.). doi:10.1029/2002JC001505 Reviewer van Congress papers.
Grasmeijer, B.T. & Ruessink, B.G. (2003). Modeling of waves and currents in the nearshore: parametric vs. probabilistic approach. Coastal Engineering, 49 (3), (pp. 185-207) (23 p.).
Koningsveld, M., Stive, M.J.F., Mulder, J.P.M., de Vriend, H.J., Ruessink, B.G. & Dunsbergen, D.W. (2003). Usefulness and effectiveness of coastal research: a matter of perception?. Journal of Coastal Research, 19, (pp. 441-461) (21 p.).
van Enckevort, I.M.J. & Ruessink, B.G. (2003). Video observations of nearshore bar behaviour. Part 1: alongshore uniform variability. Continental Shelf Research, 23 (5), (pp. 501-512) (12 p.).
van Enckevort, I.M.J. & Ruessink, B.G. (2003). Video observations of nearshore bar behaviour. Part 2: alongshore non-uniform variability. Continental Shelf Research, 23 (5), (pp. 513-532) (20 p.).
  2002 - Scholarly publications
Ruessink, B.G. & Jeuken, M.C.J.L. (2002). Dunefoot dynamics along the Dutch coast. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 27, (pp. 1043-1056).
Miles, J.R., Ruessink, B.G., Russell, P.E. & Huntley, D.A. (2002). Field observations of the effect of shear waves on sediment suspension and transport. Continental Shelf Research, 22, (pp. 657-681).
Ruessink, B.G., Bell, P.S., van Enckevort, I.M.J. & Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (2002). Nearshore bar crest location quantified from time-averaged x-band radar images. Coastal Engineering, 45 (Issue 1), (pp. 19-32) (14 p.).
  2001 - Scholarly publications
van Enckevort, I.M.J. & Ruessink, B.G. (2001). Effect of hydrodynamics and bathymetry on video estimates of nearshore sandbar position. Journal of Geophysical Research, 106 (C8), (pp. 16969-16980) (12 p.).
Ruessink, B.G., Miles, J.R., Feddersen, F., Guza, R.T. & Elgar, S. (2001). Modeling the alongshore current on barred beaches. Journal of Geophysical Research (106-C10), (pp. 22451-22463) (13 p.).
Plant, N.G., Ruessink, B.G. & Wijnberg, K.M. (2001). Morphologic properties derived from a simple cross-shore sediment transport model. Journal of Geophysical Research (106-C1), (pp. 945-958) (14 p.).
  2000 - Scholarly publications
Ruessink, B.G. (2000). An empirical energetics-based formulation for the cross-shore suspended sediment transport by bound infragravity waves. Journal of Coastal Research, 16, (pp. 482-493).
Ruessink, B.G., van Enckevort, I.M.J., Kingston, K.S. & Davidson, M.A. (2000). Analysis of observed two- and three-dimensional nearshore bar behaviour. Marine Geology, 169, (pp. 161-183).
Kingston, K.S., Ruessink, B.G., van Enckevort, I.M.J. & Davidson, M.A. (2000). Artificial neural network correction of remotely sensed sandbar location. Marine Geology, 169, (pp. 137-160).
Ruessink, B.G. & Terwindt, J.H.J. (2000). The behaviour of nearshore bars on the time scale of years: a conceptual model. Marine Geology, 163, (pp. 289-302).
  1999 - Scholarly publications
Ruessink, B.G., Houwman, K.T. & Hoekstra, P. (1999). Medium-term frequency distributions of cross-shore sediment transport rates in water depths of 3 to 9 m. Coastal Engineering, 38, (pp. 25-46).
  1998 - Scholarly publications
Ruessink, B.G. (1998). Bound and free infragravity waves in the nearshore zone under breaking and nonbreaking conditions. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 103, (pp. 12795) (12805 p.).
Ruessink, B.G., Kleinhans, M.G. & Van den Beukel, P.G.L. (1998). Observations of swash under highly dissipative conditions. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 103, (pp. 3111-3118).
Ruessink, B.G., Houwman, K.T. & Hoekstra, P. (1998). The systematic contribution of transporting mechanisms to the cross-shore sediment transport rates in water depths of 3 to 9 m. Marine Geology, 152, (pp. 295-324).
Ruessink, B.G. (1998). The temporal and spatial variability of infragravity waves in a barred nearshore zone. Continental Shelf Research, 18, (pp. 585-605).
  1994 - Scholarly publications
Ruessink, B.G. & Kroon, A. (1994). The behaviour of a multiple bar system in the nearshore zone of Terschelling: 1965-1993. Marine Geology, 121, (pp. 187-197).
^ top
Gegenereerd op 2018-08-15 02:01:12
01.03.2018 to 01.03.2022
General project description 

The coastal region of Suriname is low-lying, flat and vulnerable for anticipated sea level rise and increasing storm frequencies. This area is also essential for agriculture, for fresh drink water from the sandy sediments and for human settlements. Managing such vulnerable and valuable environment requires in-depth understanding of governing processes and interactions steering the system. The coastal system is extremely complex: large mud supplies from the Amazone results in mud banks migrating along the coast influenced by complex wind patterns. These mud banks create opportunities for mangroves that in turn play an important role protecting the coast and for flora/fauna. Apart from natural dynamics, anthropogenic activities such as mangrove removal, sand mining and channel dredging result in ecosystem degradation. Sea level rise and increasing storminess may cause erosion and submersion of the coast. The project contributes to SDG13: Climate Action through developing an innovative, combined model simulating coastal dynamics accounting for interactions between mud banks, waves, winds and mangroves. The model will be used to explore impacts of climate change and human interference aiming at developing sustainable management solutions. Time-series of earth observation images will be analysed to map mangrove dynamics and mud bank migration. The project contributes to SDG4: Education by involving the Suriname University and create awareness by collaborating with local practitioners (WWF, CI, UNDP, WI). Results will profoundly impact longterm coastal protection by providing missing knowledge and innovative tools optimizing coastal management. Together with Wetlands International scalability of expertise to other mangrove coasts (Guianas, Asia) is anticipated.



Role Researcher Funding
NWO grant: Funded through the joint SDG research programme of NWO - WOTRO 2017 (W 07.303.106)
Project members UU
Aeolus meets Poseidon
01.07.2014 to 30.06.2019
General project description 

Coastal dunes serve as a natural safety barrier against marine flooding and possess high ecological value with many environmental transitions (wet/dry, salt/fresh). The societal need for safe coasts has resulted in over-stabilized dunes that can withstand the impact of fierce storm waves, but have impoverished natural values and undesirably reduced biodiversity. We now face the challenge of combining coastal safety objectives with nature development to maintain sustainable and climate-proof dunes. This demands profound quantitative understanding of aeolian (wind-blown) processes, rather than of storm-wave processes alone. Wind-blown beach sand allows dunes to grow vertically with sea-level rise, thereby ensuring long-term coastal safety, and is crucial to sustain the dunes’ biodiversity by resetting ecological succession locally and temporally. The overarching aim of the project is to build a next-generation coastal-evolution model that unifies wave-driven (Poseidon) dune erosion with wind-blown (Aeolus) sand supply.

Aeolian transport on beaches is influenced strongly by the moisture of the top few millimetres of sand. Moisture and sand transport interact to create fascinating aeolian bedforms that, in turn, lead to complex spatial and temporal variability in transport. These challenging interactions and feedbacks, coupled to scale issues, currently defy accurate predictions of aeolian sand supply to the dunes. I have recently set up an infrared terrestrial laser scanning method to solve the long-standing problem of precise and rapid moisture measurements over a spatially extensive area. Using integrated field and model studies, three PhD students (Yvonne Smit, Winnie de Winter and Pam Hage) study the determinants of moisture variability, the dynamics of moisture-induced aeolian bedforms, and the spatial and temporal variability in aeolian transport. Simultaneously, a postdoc (Jasper Donker) aggregates our new, detailed process knowledge into a model that realistically allows prediction of sand supply, with its inherent seasonal to multi-annual time scales. In co-operation with stakeholders, we will apply the model in two coastal-safety and dune-biodiversity case studies to guarantee immediate knowledge utilization and dissemination to the public.

Role PhD Supervisor & Project Leader & Researcher
Individual project description

Watch the 'Bright Minds' movie made by Utrecht University:

And the movie on dune growth by my PhD student Yvonne Smit:


NWO grant
Project members UU

Completed projects

Understanding how sand nourishments affect embryonic dune development 01.11.2017 to 15.03.2018
General project description

A common measure to prevent erosion of beach-dune systems and warrant coastal safety is to add large amounts of sand on the beach or in the shallow water directly fronting the beach. These nourishments are intended to be redistributed across the beach-dune system by natural processes. Embryonic dunes are a clear expression of this onshore sand transport and may provide suitable indicators for the effectiveness of nourishments, both in terms of safety and ecological impact. In this project, we aim to study how nourishment strategies affect the physical and ecological drivers of embryonic dune development along sandy coasts.

Role Researcher Funding
Utrecht University: Future Deltas seed-money
Project members UU
External project members:
  • drs. Petra Damsa (Rijkswaterstaat)
  • drs. Quirijn Lodder (Rijkswaterstaat)
NatureCoast 15.04.2013 to 14.07.2017
General project description

The Sand Engine pilot project is a concentrated 21 Mm3 shore nourishment (i.e. sand deposition) at the Delfland coast (NL) constructed in 2011. This unprecedented experiment aims to protect the hinterland from flooding by letting natural processes distribute sand over shoreface, beach and dunes, thus constituting a climate-robust and environmentally friendly way of coastal protection. The key objective of NatureCoast is to raise our understanding and predictive capability regarding the various aspects of this type of shore nourishments, up to a level enabling to assess their effectiveness and to export the underlying technology worldwide. This requires understanding the key morphological, hydrological, geochemical, ecological and societal processes governing the evolution, feasibility and acceptability of this kind of nourishments, as well as translating this knowledge to practical guidelines and tools. Since the Sand Engine situation differs significantly from the original situation with an almost-straight coastline, knowledge gaps in all of these areas have to be filled. The Sand Engine and its monitoring data provide a unique opportunity to achieve this.

The NatureCoast project comprises sub-projects on Coastal Safety, Dune Formation, Marine Ecology, Terrestrial Ecology, Hydrology and Geochemistry, and Governance. In total, 12 PhD students and 3 postdoctoral researchers work on this truely national programme. PhD student Jantien Rutten is working within the Coastal Safety sub-project. Her focus is on the morphological evolution of the inter- and subtidal zone of the Sand Engine on time scales of days to years. She is using an extensive data set of in-situ jet-ski surveys, supplemented with Argus video imagery and X-band radar data. Of particular interest are the performance of both remote sensing techniques in building high-resolution data sets of bed elevation and the striking alongshore variability in sandbar behaviour along the Sand Engine because of its strongly curved nature. In 2014 Jantien participated in MegaPex, an international field experiment hosted by Delft University of Technology to measure crucial data on the (among other topics) hydrodynamics and morphological evolution of the Sand Engine under high-wave conditions.

Here is a movie that outlines the NatureCoast project:

And this movie illustrates the MegaPex experiment:

Role PhD Supervisor & Project Leader Funding
NWO grant
Project members UU
Turbulence and sand transport beneath breaking waves 01.04.2013 to 01.04.2017
General project description

Process-based morphodynamic models are key tools to predict coastal evolution in response to human activities, such as nourishments and beach-restoration projects, and to natural variations in the wave climate, including storms and hurricanes. While modelling efforts of sea-bed evolution in water depths exceeding ~2 m are now reasonably successful, efforts for shallower depths have commonly failed. Thus, the predictive understanding of the evolution of our sandy beaches is inadequate. We do know that in these shallow depths, the almost vertical, strongly aerated walls of broken waves, termed bores, inject turbulent eddies into the water column. We aim to examine and model the effects of surface-generated turbulence on sand suspension and transport beneath bores. PhD student Joost Brinkkemper uses the large-scale Bardex II laboratory data set of turbulence and sand concentrations, combined with information of small-scale bed patterns (wave ripples), to progress our understanding of sand transport processes in shallow water. In the final year of the project, he will use the insights gained to develop a new, well-founded, practical sand transport formulation that can be implemented into Dutch operational coastal-evolution models.

Role PhD Supervisor & Project Leader Funding
NWO grant
Project members UU
Infragravity waves on a gently sloping beach 01.03.2012 to 19.03.2016
General project description

Storm-generated wind waves create secondary waves - termed infragravity waves - that have typical periods of 20 to 200 s. Infragravity waves can become more than 1 m in height near the shore and are responsible for beach and dune erosion. We have collected field and laboratory data sets on gently sloping (1:80) beaches that completely change the textbook view on infragravity-wave dynamics. In particular, our data demonstrate that, in contrast to observations on steeper (1:10-1:30) beaches, infragravity waves dissipate most of their energy close to the shore and do not reflect to form a standing pattern. PhD student Anouk de Bakker will explore the cause(s) of the infragravity energy dissipation and use numerical modelling to examine the generality of her findings for other beach slopes. In the final year of her project Anouk will examine how this energy dissipation affects infragravity-wave induced sand transport, and hence the magnitude of beach erosion.

Role PhD Supervisor & Project Leader Funding
NWO grant
Project members UU
Gegenereerd op 2018-08-15 02:01:12

I currently teach or contribute to courses in all years of the BSc Aardwetenschappen (Earth Surface and Landforms) and MSc Earth Sciences (Earth Surface & Water). Courses to which I contribute but do not have the overall responsibility are marked with (*) below.

· (*) System Earth 2, BSc year 1, 2011-present
· Coastal Morphodynamics, BSc year 3, 2003-present
· Bachelor thesis supervision, BSc year 3, 2002-present (on average, 3 students/year)
· (*) Hazards and risk assessment, MSc year 1, 2011-present
· Morphodynamics of wave-dominated coasts, MSc year 1, 2012-present
· (*) Introduction to Marine Sciences, MSc year 1, 2014-present
· MSc Research Coastal morphodynamics (on average, 3 students/year), 1994, 1995, 1998, 2004 - present
· MSc traineeship at governmental or research institutes, 2003 – present (on average, 3 students/year)


Past courses I taught:

· Mathematics, BSc year 1, 1999-2000
· Introductory Statistics, BSc year 1, 2002-2008
· Excursion France, BSc year 2, 2002-2011
· (*) River and Coastal Modelling, MSc year 1, 2003-2004
· (*) Climate change and adaptation, MSc year 1, 2010-2014
· (*) Natural Hazards, BSc year 2, 2012-2015
· (*) Earth observation and data analysis, BSc year 2, 2009-2015


Gegenereerd op 2018-08-15 02:01:12
Additional functions and activities

Member of Mangement Team Department of Physical Geography

Board member of Institute for Marine and Atmospheric research Utrecht (IMAU)

Committee member STW-VIDI (call 2013, 2014)

Gegenereerd op 2018-08-15 02:01:12
Full name
prof. dr. B.G. Ruessink Contact details
Vening Meineszgebouw A

Princetonlaan 8a
Room 4.06
The Netherlands

Phone number (direct) +31 30 253 2780
Phone number (department) +31 30 253 2749
Mo Tue Wed Thu Fr
Gegenereerd op 2018-08-15 02:01:12
Last updated 15.06.2018