Why sustainable fashion isn’t taking off: Two new studies point to misaligned marketing tactics

Two new studies by researchers at Utrecht University show that retailers promoting sustainable and second-hand fashion may be unintentionally missing potential customers simply because of their marketing tactics. The first study highlights a disconnect between their perception of consumer drivers to purchase sustainable fashion and the marketing tactics they apply; the second highlights a disconnect between sustainable fashion messaging and the needs of consumers, especially among GenZs. 

Sustainable fashion has grown in visibility over the past decade. Although many consumers say they care about sustainability, research shows that in practice, sustainable fashion makes up only a small fraction of the market. The first of two just-published studies by Annuska Toebast-Wensink, a PhD researcher at Utrecht University’s Copernicus Institute of Sustainable Development, supervised by Karlijn van den Broek and Marko Hekkert (Utrecht University) and Tijs Timmerman (University of Applied Sciences Utrecht) finds that many retailers do not align their marketing with what drives their consumers to shop, thereby potentially missing out on a large segment of the audience.

Although consumers are aware of the need for sustainability, there are other factors that are driving their fashion purchases.

Retailers intuitively understand what consumers want, but don’t market that way

When asked what drives shoppers, most retailers think that people choose sustainable fashion primarily for personal reasons such as if they like the style or if the price feels reasonable. Sustainability itself, they said, usually comes second. Despite recognizing this, retailers tend to rely on information-heavy marketing. They share facts about sustainability, write blogs, post about the harms of fast fashion, or explain the benefits of eco-friendly materials. “Although consumers are aware of the need for sustainability, there are other factors that are driving their fashion purchases”, says Toebast-Wensink.

Style and self-expression matter more to GenZs

A key demographic shaping the future of sustainable and second-hand fashion, are Generation Z consumers; the people born between the years 1997 and 2012. Toebast-Wensink’s follow-up study found that GenZs are drawn to second-hand clothing because it is creative, unique and affordable. Many shoppers want more sustainable options, but they also want style, affordability, aspiration and ease. When marketing leans too much on abstract sustainability messages and factual data, it risks not attracting people who might otherwise be open to trying sustainable alternatives.

Marketing tactics are most effective when aligned with how people actually make decisions.

What does this mean for retailers and the wider society?

For retailers, the findings highlight untapped opportunities. Instead of relying mainly on informational campaigns, they can try making sustainable fashion more desirable and accessible. For instance, it could be showcased as stylish and aspirational by using influencers to set social norms or making the impact of choices visible and concrete. This matters beyond the retail sector. The stakes for society itself are much bigger than just fashion sales. “Clothing is a major contributor to emissions and waste, and even small shifts in consumer choices can have a wider environmental impact,” says Toebast-Wensink. “But to achieve this, marketing needs to align with how people actually make decisions.”