New publication advocates for justice-focused EU circular textile policy reforms

Utrecht University researchers in collaboration with researchers from Finnish, Belgian and Spanish universities have contributed a chapter to the recently published book Strengthening European Climate Policy, which is geared toward policymakers, NGOs, and researchers who focus on integrating social and environmental priorities into European climate and circular economy initiatives. The researchers' contribution delves into the socio-environmental justice implications of 11 core EU policies that aim to transition the textile industry toward circularity.

The book explores critical frameworks to support balanced socio-environmental approaches to climate action. Supported by a grant from the SSH Center, the team co-authored a chapter titled Weaving a Transformative Circular Textile Policy Through a Socio-Environmental Justice Lens.

“Our research brings urgent attention to the need for more socially equitable climate policies within the European textile industry, highlighting how European Union policies impact communities both within and beyond EU borders, with a particular focus on marginalized groups in the Global South,” says co-author Lis Suarez Visbal.

Contributing authors from Utrecht University include social and environmental scientists Lis Suarez Visbal, Veerle Vermeyen, Abe Hendriks, Blanca Corona, and Jesús Rosales Carreón, in collaboration with Martin Calisto Friant from the Autonomous University of Barcelona and Härri Anna from Aalto University in Finland.

Critical gaps

The authors identify several critical gaps and opportunities for strengthening EU textile policy to better align with principles of socio-environmental justice:

• Environmental Gaps: Although policies emphasize transparency and value retention, they fall short of addressing systemic issues like overproduction and overconsumption. Important elements, such as planetary boundaries and sustainable consumption targets, are notably absent.
• Recognizing Vulnerabilities: The policies significantly impact communities in the Global South, particularly informal workers, women, and migrants, who are often made vulnerable. The authors call for more inclusivity, extending support to small- and medium-sized enterprises and those most affected by shifts in the industry.

Our research brings urgent attention to the need for more socially equitable climate policies within the European textile industry, highlighting how European Union policies impact communities both within and beyond EU borders

• Uneven Distribution of Costs and Benefits: The team highlights that policy benefits and burdens are unevenly distributed. Clear definitions of "quality jobs" and a more globally accountable approach are necessary to prevent policies from disproportionately affecting marginalized groups outside the EU.
• Lack of Participation: The research points to a need for more effective participatory mechanisms in policy development. True transformation requires empowering voices across the textile supply chain, particularly those at the frontlines of change.
• Need for Restorative Actions: The authors urge for transformative changes in business models, calling for stronger legal frameworks to hold companies accountable and better protect vulnerable workers throughout the textile value chain.

Recommendations for policy transformation

The research team’s recommendations call for actionable steps to advance the EU's circular economy goals while championing social equity:

• Implement clear limits on textile production to reduce environmental impact.
• Strengthen participatory decision-making processes to include marginalized communities.
• Increase financial and technical support for suppliers in the Global South, ensuring their capacity to adapt to sustainable practices.

This work emphasizes that the future of the textile industry should be both environmentally sustainable and socially just, urging policymakers to consider the dual goals of circularity and socio-environmental justice.